Brave Fashion

Fatima Lopes SS13

The provocative Amazon-inspired Spring Summer 2013 collection: Did Fatima Lopes’s collection shock the audience? Well, we’re not sure, but maybe it will shock you.

Futuristic cuts, low cut décolletages, beautifully flower-detailed accessories, and
Amazonian-inspired patterns; this is what the Portuguese-born fashion designer
presented at the Théâtre du Chatelet, in Paris during this year’s Fashion Week.

Some of the swimsuits from her collection are barely noticeable, showing a lot of skin. One of the models appeared on the runway covered with only a narrow patterned piece of fabric attached to her bikini bottom.

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Another piece from Fatima’s collection, this time a dress, shows off the model’s body. Interestingly, contrasting with the very high cut of the dress showing the leg, the top part covers up the neck with the same beautiful patterned fabric as on the swimsuit. This combination keeps the dress from being vulgar, or too indecent to wear in ‘real-life’.

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This dress, again, has certain aspects that makes it wearable, but at the same time, provocative. It has cuts on the side and a deep décolletage, but it is also long in the back and front and has the neck covered.

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Finally, the accessories are a very important part of this collection. Inspired
by flowers, an ongoing detail has been used for all the accessories. The golden
flower attached to the heel of the shoe has also been used as a brooch for the swimsuit, or even as a purse for one of the dresses.

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Written by Ioana Minulescu.

Burberry Prorsum SS13

Burberry Prorsum and outlandish designs are not two pillars of the fashion industry I would normally couple together, and to be honest I hadn’t even considered the brand as a possible candidate for the issue of ‘brave fashion’. Over many decades the company has managed to develop a trademark synonymous with English refinement, however they’ve broken the mould and Prorsum are stepping
into the world of crazy fashion… Westwood better watch out.

Burberry prides itself upon the timelessness of the cuts, designs and heritage that’s it’s built up for so long and to suddenly throw this all away would sound rather foolish and rushed, but they miraculously pulled it off.

SS13 is all about colour (again!) but colour with a twist; namely metallics. The collection features metallic fuchsia trench coats and block peplums wrapped in what I imagine was heavily dyed Baco-Foil. The collection displays a futuristic-candy pop theme throughout, which helped to unveil the playful side of Burberry’s creative team from behind a stiff exterior.

However, while the use of colour was daring, the underlying principles of Burberry Prorsum are preserved underneath this layer of sweetie-wrapper fabric, with capes emerging as a key item of the collection. Short, glossy wraps caressed the shoulders of many models, adding another dimension and colour into the busy runway looks.

Christopher Bailey, the maestro behind the collection, cleverly concealed many of the typical heritage pieces under the bursts of colour. It was a collection of deception, with eyes being drawn to the acid-trip shapes and colours, while the sleek designs are only noticed upon second inspection.

Plenty of forethought was evident. The creative team have clearly used the calm off-peak seasons to collaborate and develop their new statement, allowing them to reap in the giddy success of their collection at LFW.

This was a blatant attempt to prove to the fashion industry that Burberry is not lagging behind, but is at the forefront of innovation and design. Being left behind is a fashion nightmare: you are considered out of touch, reduced to working within a dull, uninspiring niche.

Burberry Prorsum has caused us to reassess our views toward the once ailing brand. The success of the reinvention really boils down to the stereotypes we’ve come to associate with Burberry. It catapulted itself from bespoke simplicity to a virtually unrecognisable brand in the matter of one season.

However, the source of excitement from reinvention can run dry quickly; the challenge to Burberry Prorsum now is to strive forward with bold designs without falling back into familiar territory.

Written by Bakkiam Ganapathi.

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